A Happy Valley?

The Calder Woodland Way Day 2 – Mytholmroyd to Walsden

Alighting from the train at 8:10 a.m, I crossed back to the north side of the valley to resume the Way. A pleasant, broad footpath led through Redacre Wood, followed by a track to Broad Bottom, an elegant Yeoman’s house and terrace. On my practice walk I’d become distracted by the attractive floral displays and had heeded the numerous large signs directing me onto a path to the left, whereas the Way led through an easily overlooked gate to the right. After a steady, leafy climb through Burless Wood, I came to a junction of paths where the Way led over a concealed stile and…where now? On careful inspection, you could see that in the past, steps had been created. One could vaguely make out that people had walked that way before, making an indentation in the nettles towards…is that a gate? Ah yes, there’s the waymark post, broken and on its side…Hurrah! Here’s the walled track it mentions.

A steep track, needing careful footwork, led down to Mayroyd Wood, at the bottom of which I’d missed my way on the practice walk. Finding no other obvious path, I’d followed a waymark sign that led me into hideous undergrowth. This time I followed the instructions precisely, and found the walled path as directed. This led down to a steep, walled flight of stones steps. I wondered if I was descending into the Abyss, but instead landed beside the main road. I crossed over to reach Hebden Bridge railway station, where I took a break and sheltered from a downpour.    

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My friend Peter alighted from the train just before 10 a.m., and off we traipsed, on a path steadily rising through Crow Nest Wood on the south side of the valley, with increasingly picturesque views of Hebden. Carefully following the instructions we reached Horsehold Scout. From this remarkable vantage point we looked down into the valley where a local school was noisily holding Sports Day, and across the valley to Heptonstall. A charming path requiring careful footing +led through Horsehold Wood. This brought us to Beaumont Clough, where we had to cross the stream via slippery stones. As ever, we had to follow the instructions precisely, notable features being neat terraced houses; a path rising diagonally through holly and oak, marked with blobs, where Peter couldn’t resist going on a swing; a bog; a pretty, winding path leading over a magical footbridge, eventually crossing the main road at Eastwood.

Uphill we trekked again, this time to the north of the valley. Several woods and paths later, we arrived at Lad Stones, an outcrop perched above an almost sheer wooded cliff. The sunshine lit up the valley and the town of Todmorden. This breathtaking view must be one of the finest that Calderdale – and West Yorkshire – has to offer.

There followed more delights, including a path with bilberries, before we descended on a flagged path into Todmorden. The vegetation once again put up a sterling resistance with a battery of prickles before we reached the streets. We rehydrated ourselves at the White Hart Inn before passing the railway station from where Peter caught his train home. I set off on the final leg, southwards to Walsden along the west side of the valley.

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A long, easy rise up a track – then a road – brought me to the hamlet of Stones, at the top of the bank. Here, an expanse of grassy hillsides lay head. I descended amongst the sheep and lambs to Friths Farm and followed the footpath to the hamlet around Stoneswood Mill.

There was no rest for the wicked as I picked up a track rising steeply towards Dean Farm where the instructions told me to ‘continue straight on across the open hillside’ before picking up a broad path to some ruins. They said nothing about the bogs (pictured), which were squelchy and difficult to traverse even after weeks of drought. The broad path was indistinct, and you couldn’t see the ruins before you got to them! But having messed this bit up on my practice walk, I worked it out on the Big Occasion.

The final section involved a descent through Naze Wood. You could see said wood from the ruins, but to reach it you had to negotiate six-foot-high bracken, which was hazardous in that you couldn’t see the path beneath, with its downward steps. I made it, then enjoyed the beautiful conclusion to

the walk that led through Pasture Side Wood, reflecting how well I’d done to stay on my feet. As I sauntered between the trees, I slipped backwards onto the soft ground…Fortunately the only casualties were my dirty trousers and injured pride.

Out of the woods at last! A quarter of a mile, and a few streets later, I sat on the platform of Walsden station to await my train home. Four days afterwards, I handed in most of my sponsorship money and am overawed that our church has almost reached its target. At long last we can begin to repair our organ.

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So, would I recommend this walk as a challenge? At 23.5 miles, with an elevation of 4,700 feet, it compares closely with the Yorkshire Three Peaks (24 miles, 5,200 feet). But it’s a complex route; you’re slowed down by many stiles, steep gradients and difficult footwork.

Would I recommend it as a scenic experience? Against the Three Peaks, there’s no comparison. This walk will lead you into the most charming corners of Calderdale, Yorkshire’s hidden jewel. Tucked away amongst its folds are exquisite footpaths that take you back in time, connecting you with the valley’s ancient inhabitants, and delightful, steep-sided  cloughs with water trickling over rocks. The trail leaflet is packed with interesting facts, about both local and natural history.

Sometimes, amongst the bogs, briars and bike ramps, I cursed Chris Goddard, its creator. Peter said, “Don’t be too hard on him. He’s given us a marvellous walk.” He’s right; this route deserves to become popular. It is a travesty that Calderdale’s footpaths have fallen into such disrepair and that the walk is not waymarked. I shall shout about it until somebody listens!!

You can view my pictures here