Exploring the Okanagan

“Well, John and Jane,” said sister Di(ana), your holiday’s been a real kaleidoscope.” We returned a week ago after spending a marvellous fortnight in the Okanagan valley, in British Columbia, Western Canada.

Di and Darrel were marvellous hosts, and with them we had the very best experience of what the northern Okanagan has to offer. From their home we gazed across the peaceful lake to the towering, forested hills and peaks beyond. I’ve picked out ten places which, between them, describe the area, hoping it will help anyone intending to visit. [If you’re a skiier, you need to look up Silver Star Mountain Centre, which we didn’t include.]

1. Stationhouse Museum at Paddlewheel Hall, Vernon. From approx 1885 to 1936, a railway ran from further north to the top of the lake, where passengers, goods and mail transferred onto a paddle steamer. This sailed south to Kelowna then to Penticton where the railway resumed. The hall has been moved from its original position on the jetty and reassembled.

A small but fascinating museum tells its story, aided by an intricate scale model (shown). Di and Darrel have both played a big part in setting up and running the museum.

2. Allan Brooks Nature Centre, near Vernon. This interesting  educational centre sits astride a ridge between two lakes, on a dry grassland area. We explored the local ecosystem by walking a short trail, during which we met a colony of marmots. The museum is packed with information presented in a family-friendly way.

3. Sparkling Hill resort and Spa. Sited way above the Okanagan valley, here’s where wealthy golfers can enjoy a luxurious break and take in the fine views. But the hotel staff are happy to welcome on site the less well-heeled (such as us) and I understand it’s a great place to eat. 

4. Ellison Provincial Park, situated on a small pensinsula on the lake,  is a great place to camp or to pitch a motorhome. The park extends up through the forest towards Sparkling Hill, and is criss-crossed by mountain biking and walking trails (which conflict at times!). We were very lucky to be there on a sunlit evening, walking amongst the balsamroot (Okanagan sunflowers).

5. Kelowna waterfront. 40 miles south of Vernon, Kelowna is the Okanagan’s city and boasts its main airport. Whilst Di was at the small Anglican cathedral practising for a recorder orchestra concert, Darrel took us to the waterfront. We walked through a beautiful park with lakes, bordered by stylish residential apartments, then on to the marina. Amongst our many photos, I’ve chosen ‘Rhapsody’ with its four intertwined dolphins.

6. Fintry Provincial Park. We returned to Vernon by driving up the more remote, western side of the lake. It was heartbreaking to witness the devastation wrought by the forest fires three, then again two years ago. Then we arrived at Fintry where a waterfall cascades in stages down the steep bank towards a delta at the side of the lake. After returning from a 200-foot ascent on a wooden staircase and boardwalk, we read about Captain James Dun-Waters, a Scot who arrived in Canada after WW1. He used the waterfall to irrigate the Delta and to supply power to his successful farm enterprise.

7. Davison Orchards and the Grey Canal. The Okanagan lies in a rain shadow but is renowned for its fruit. This was made possible by the construction of systems like the Grey Canal, a 50 km long, gravity fed  irrigation channel opened in 1906. Nowadays it’s an attractive walking trail from which you can view the orchards below. Davisons is a family attraction; a large glass of freshly pressed apple or pear juice tastes delicious on a warm day!

8. Vernon Community Arts Centre and Science Centre are situated next to each other close to the town centre. The Science centre is family-friendly and interactive. It concentrates on a few well-chosen topics such as the experience of space travel, dinosaurs, robotics, chemistry corner, and a smart showcase of mineral specimens. The arts centre has exhibits but its work centres around classes and workshops such as the glass fusion creation that Jane and Di took part in.

9. Cosens Bay and Rattlesnake Point lie at the head of Kalamanka Lake. From the car park, we embarked on a dramatic 1½ mile hike down to the sandy beach. Climbing back to the cliffs, a tough but pretty switchback walk amonst trees brought us to Rattlesnake Point at the end of the headland. Birds abounded, as did marmots whose clicks warned their friends of our approach.

10. Okanagan Rail Trail. I hate learning that a railway has closed. However the demise of the Vernon to Kelowna route has opened up a wonderful trail for cyclists. We hired bikes from a shop at the trail head in Coldstream at the north end of Kalamanka Lake and rode for an hour along the shore before turning back, stopping for pictures at several pretty viewpoints along the way.

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So now you know where we went. But Di’s remark about our kaleidoscopic holiday refered to much more than the places we visited. In the next post, I’ll tell you about the people we met, the culture we experienced, the music we played, and the passion of Canadians for their nation.